LED Aquarium Light
Dimmable multi-channel LED fixture; spectrum and PAR matter far more than wattage.
| Power | 10–120 W |
|---|---|
| Channels | White / red / blue, independently dimmable |
| Colour temperature | 6500–10000 K |
| PAR at 30 cm | 60–250 µmol/m²/s |
| Control | Manual, timer or app |
| Mounting | Riser legs or suspended |
| Low light | 20–40 µmol/m²/s at substrate |
|---|---|
| Medium light | 40–80 µmol/m²/s |
| High light | 80–150+ µmol/m²/s |
| Photoperiod, new tank | 6 h at 50% |
| Photoperiod, mature | 7–8 h at full |
| Ramp duration | 15–30 min |
Modern planted-tank lighting is LED, and the useful specification is not wattage but PAR — photosynthetically active radiation, the light in the 400–700 nm band that chlorophyll can actually use — measured at the substrate in µmol/m²/s.
A fixture with separate white, red and blue channels lets you tune both intensity and spectrum. Red around 660 nm and blue around 450 nm drive photosynthesis hardest; green is largely reflected, which is why plants look green and why a green-heavy spectrum looks bright to you but grows plants poorly. Most quality fixtures run a white channel for appearance plus red and blue for growth.
The practical control is a dimmer and a schedule. Starting a new tank at 6 hours and 50% intensity, then extending by 30 minutes a week to a maximum of 8 hours, prevents the algae bloom that follows a full-intensity start on an immature tank. A ramp-up and ramp-down also stops fish being startled and is closer to what happens in the wild.
- Keep the fixture and its power supply well clear of the water surface and splash. Aquarium lights are not submersible unless stated.
- Use a drip loop on the cable. Water running down a light cable into a socket is a real and common failure.
- Do not look directly into high-output LEDs at close range — the blue peak is intense and uncomfortable.