Algae Scraper
Blade or pad on a handle — the tool that decides whether glass stays clear or gets scratched.
| Type | Blade or pad on handle |
|---|---|
| Blade material | Stainless steel or plastic |
| Handle length | 30–70 cm |
| Blade width | 5–10 cm |
| Replacement | Blades sold separately |
| Magnetic option | Two-part float cleaner |
| Green spot algae | Metal blade required |
|---|---|
| Soft film | Pad or sponge |
| Acrylic tanks | Plastic blade only |
| Low-iron glass | Soft — blade carefully |
| Cleaning interval | Weekly, before it hardens |
| Grit hazard | Rinse blade between strokes |
Algae on the front glass is the most visible maintenance failure in any aquarium, and the tool you remove it with determines whether the glass survives the process. A blade removes hard green spot algae that a pad cannot touch; a pad removes soft films that a blade would smear.
Material matters, and it is not a matter of preference. Metal blades are safe on glass and will scratch acrylic permanently. Plastic blades are safe on acrylic and largely ineffective against green spot algae. On low-iron glass — which is softer than standard float glass — even a metal blade can leave fine scratches if a grain of sand is trapped under it, so the blade must be wiped between strokes.
The long-handled scraper with a replaceable blade is the practical choice for a rimless tank, because it lets you work the whole pane without putting an arm in the water. A magnetic cleaner is convenient but cannot reach the substrate line, and trapped grit between its two halves is the most common cause of a scratched tank.
- Never use a metal blade on acrylic. The scratch is permanent and there is no repair short of replacing the pane.
- Rinse the blade after every stroke on a sandy tank. A single trapped grain drags a visible line across the whole pane.
- Keep blades out of reach of children and store them with a guard fitted.