Nerite Snail
Algae-eating snail that cannot breed in freshwater — no population explosion.
| Adult size | 2–3 cm |
|---|---|
| Water | Neutral to hard, alkaline |
| Temperature | 22–28 °C |
| Breeding | Not possible in freshwater |
| Lifespan | 2–4 years |
| Diet | Algae, biofilm |
| pH range | 7.0–8.4 |
|---|---|
| GH | 6–15 dGH |
| KH | 4–10 dKH — required for shell |
| Stocking | 1 per 15–20 L |
| Egg capsules | Laid but never hatch |
| Escape risk | High in open tanks |
Nerite snails are the answer to the algae problem that most snails create. They graze diatom films and green spot algae off glass, stone and leaves, they are completely plant-safe, and they cannot reproduce in freshwater — their larvae need brackish water to develop. A tank with six nerites in it will still have six nerites in it a year later.
That single trait makes them uniquely useful. Malaysian trumpet snails and ramshorns breed to the carrying capacity of the tank and become a nuisance; nerites simply work. They are also long-lived, reaching several years, and their shells — striped, horned or zebra-patterned — are attractive in their own right.
Two caveats. They lay eggs constantly even though the eggs never hatch, and those small white capsules stick to hardscape and glass and are tedious to remove. And they are escape artists: a nerite will climb out of an open-top rimless tank and be found dead on the floor. A lid, or a waterline well below the rim, is the mitigation.
- Nerites need carbonate hardness to build shell. In very soft water their shells erode and they die. Test KH and remineralise if needed.
- An open-top rimless tank needs a lid or a low waterline. Nerites climb out and desiccate.
- Never use copper-based treatments. Snails are as sensitive to copper as shrimp.