Sand Substrate
Inert, rounded-grain sand — chemically neutral, but it compacts and needs root feeding.
| Material | Quartz or river sand |
|---|---|
| Grain size | 1–2 mm |
| Chemistry | Inert |
| Shape | Rounded or angular |
| Bed depth | 3–4 cm max without disturbance |
| Colour | Natural, black, white |
| pH effect | None |
|---|---|
| KH effect | None |
| Root feeding | Required for heavy feeders |
| Anaerobic risk | Rises above 4 cm depth |
| Vacuum method | Hover above surface |
| Corydoras suitability | Excellent — rounded grains |
Sand is inert. It releases nothing and buffers nothing, so the water chemistry is whatever your tap water and your fertiliser dosing make it. For a fish that needs hard, alkaline water — or for a keeper who wants predictable parameters — that neutrality is the point.
Grain shape matters more than grain size. Rounded, river-worn sand settles into a dense bed that anaerobic pockets can form in, and those pockets produce hydrogen sulphide. Angular or coarser sand stays more open. The practical rule is 1–2 mm grain, no finer, and a bed no deeper than 4 cm unless you actively disturb it.
The other consequence of inertness is that rooted plants get nothing from it. A sand substrate needs root tabs pushed in beside heavy feeders, and carpeting plants spread more slowly across sand than across aqua soil. Sand is also unforgiving of vacuuming — a strong siphon lifts it out of the tank.
- Never use builder's sand or play sand from a hardware store. It is not graded, may contain sharp fragments and can carry contaminants. Use aquarium-grade sand only.
- Stir the top centimetre weekly with a skewer to stop anaerobic pockets forming. If you ever smell rotten eggs, you have a pocket — disturb it gently and do a large water change.
- Wash sand in a bucket until the runoff runs clear before it goes anywhere near the tank.