Tanks & Filtration
The glass, the water volume and the machinery that moves it. Filtration choice sets the ceiling on how heavily a tank can be stocked and how forgiving it will be when something goes wrong.
Every entry states what the item does to the water and the organisms in it, what it is compatible with, and the safety limits that apply.
The glass, the water volume and the machinery that moves it. Filtration choice sets the ceiling on how heavily a tank can be stocked and how forgiving it will be when something goes wrong.
Light is the accelerator pedal and CO₂ is the fuel. Get them out of balance and you grow algae instead of plants — the single most common failure in a planted tank.
The base layer and the rocks and wood above it. Substrate decides what roots can do and what the water chemistry does in the first six months.
The organisms themselves — their light and CO₂ demand, growth rate, adult size and temperament, and who can live with whom.
The instruments that tell you what the water is doing, and the routine that keeps it that way. Most aquarium disasters are invisible until something is measured.
The order matters more than the equipment. A tank set up in the wrong sequence costs more to fix than one set up slowly.
Decide the tank size, the style and the stocking list before spending anything. Volume and light set every other decision, and both are expensive to change later.
Position the tank on a flat, supported surface, lay the substrate in a front-to-back slope, place the hardscape and connect the filtration.
Plant densely from the first day — a sparse start gives algae the gap it needs. Then run the nitrogen cycle to completion before any livestock go in.
A weekly water change, a weekly trim, a monthly filter service and regular testing. Consistency, more than any piece of equipment, is what grows a tank in.
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Each one runs entirely in your browser. Nothing is uploaded, no account is needed, and every simulator falls back to a static view if WebGL is unavailable.
The entries people read first — the ones where a wrong choice is expensive to undo.
Low-iron glass tank with no plastic trim, mitered corners and a clean open top.
Pressurised external filter with stacked media trays, sized by turnover rate.
Air-driven foam block that is the safest biological filter for fry and shrimp.
Foam fractionation unit that strips dissolved organics — a marine tool, not a freshwater one.
Gets water from an undrilled tank down to a sump without losing siphon on a power cut.
A second tank below the display that adds volume, hides equipment and stages filtration.
Dimmable multi-channel LED fixture; spectrum and PAR matter far more than wattage.
Dual-gauge regulator with solenoid, needle valve and bubble counter for injected carbon.
Three calculators that answer the questions the equipment labels do not: how much water is actually in there, how much CO₂ to inject, and how often to change it.
Nominal volume is not water volume. This accounts for glass thickness, substrate displacement and hardscape, then sizes the filter and heater to match.
The pH/KH relationship gives you the CO₂ concentration already in the water. From there the bubble rate and the dosing schedule follow.
Nitrate only leaves a tank through water changes and plant uptake. This works out the schedule that holds it in range.
The chemistry, the biology and the routine — explained from first principles rather than as a set of rules.
The decisions that actually matter in the first month, in the order you should make them — and the four things beginners spend money on that change nothing.
Ammonia to nitrite to nitrate, why it takes weeks, and the three tests that tell you where you actually are.
Aqua soil, sand and gravel do completely different things to roots and to water chemistry. This is how to pick, and how to lay it.
Volume, substrate weight, filter turnover, CO₂ rate and stocking density — all of it derivable in a few minutes, and all of it expensive to get wrong afterwards.